The concrete steps from Santorini’s old port to Fira number more than 500, and for decades, donkeys carried visitors up them. In 2018, Greece’s Ministry of Rural Development and Food implemented a regulation that donkeys may not carry more than 100 kilograms (220 pounds)—roughly one fifth of the animal’s body weight—following complaints from animal welfare organizations about injuries and overwork. For families arriving by ferry or cruise ship, that law means the old postcard scene of a donkey train is no longer the default way to reach the top.
Skip it—not because the experience is banned, but because the alternatives are better for everyone. The cable car, a catamaran cruise, or even a private transfer gives your kids the same sense of adventure without the heat, the smell, and the awkwardness of watching a straining animal. The one exception: a short, supervised ride with an ethical operator can work for older children, but you’ll need to check conditions on the ground yourself.
Why the donkey ride rule matters on vacation
The law, which took effect in 2018, requires that donkeys and mules carry no more than one fifth of their body weight. Enforcement varies across the island, but the rule mainly affects the ascent from the old port to Fira, where the steps are steepest and the animals work hardest. The regulation followed years of documented injuries, heat stress, and overwork—not a tourism ban, but a workload limit.
For families, the donkey ride has always been a novelty, not a necessity. But the novelty fades fast when you’re stuck behind a slow-moving animal on a hot stairway, or when your child is too young to sit comfortably on a moving saddle. The Santorini cable car offers a three-minute ride with panoramic views and runs frequently, making it the most straightforward replacement for the donkey ascent.
Alternatives that don’t compromise the fun
Kids don’t care about the mode of transport as much as parents assume. They care about the view, the speed, and whether they get a story to tell. The table below compares five alternatives that keep the thrill intact while sidestepping the ethical and logistical issues of the donkey ride.
| Alternative | Best For | Why Kids Love It | Family Logistics | Notes |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Santorini Cable Car | Quick ascent from old port to Fira | Steep climb, glass walls, birds-eye view of the caldera | Runs 6:30–22:00; queues can be long at cruise-ship arrival times | Cheapest option at €6 per person; kids under 6 ride free |
| Walking the Steps | Active older kids (8+) | Counting every step, spotting donkeys, a genuine physical challenge | Allow 20–30 minutes; bring water, wear sturdy shoes; no shade | Not practical with a stroller or in midday heat |
| Catamaran Cruise | A full-day adventure replacing the port transfer | Sailing, jumping off the boat, spotting the volcano from the water | Most operators offer half-day and full-day options; book ahead in summer | More expensive, but combines transport with a real experience |
| Private Transfer (car or minivan) | Families with luggage or young children | Air-conditioned comfort, a driver who shares local stories | Door-to-door service; no queuing; drivers meet you at the port | Best value for groups of 4+; book in advance during peak season |
| Hybrid: Cable Car + Boat Tour | Families who want both a thrill and a relaxing day | Two different rides in one morning—cable car up, boat back around | Take the cable car up, explore Fira, then book a boat tour from the old port | Requires some coordination but gives the most varied experience |
The table doesn’t account for one constraint: cruise-ship schedules. If your ship docks at the old port between 10:00 and 14:00, the cable car queue can stretch 45 minutes or more. In that case, a private transfer or a walking descent (if you’re already in Fira) saves time and frustration.
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For families who want to turn the port transfer into part of the day’s adventure, catamaran cruises around the caldera are worth browsing. They depart from the old port and include stops for swimming, so the ride replaces the climb entirely. If you’re short on time, half-day tours that include a port transfer and sightseeing offer a structured alternative, and private sightseeing tours give you a driver who can adjust the route around your family’s energy levels.
Making it work with kids
The practical question most parents ask is whether the cable car feels like a “real” enough experience to replace the donkey ride. In my experience, the answer depends on the child’s age. Sofia, at six, was more excited by the glass-walled cabin rising over the edge of the caldera than she would have been by a slow, bumpy ride she couldn’t control. The whole ride takes about three minutes, which is short enough to hold attention and long enough to feel like a proper event.
At the old port in Fira, the cable car station is directly opposite the dock. If the queue is long, ask a local guide or transfer driver about the alternative walking path that cuts behind the cable car station—it’s steeper but emptier, and kids who are old enough to manage it often prefer the independence.
For families with toddlers, a private transfer is the most reliable option. The Bus Travel Santorini service provides air-conditioned vehicles with trained drivers who know the island’s narrow roads, and they can pick you up at the port, hotel, or airport. The cost is higher than the cable car, but for a family of four with a stroller and suitcases, it’s the difference between a smooth arrival and a stressful one.
Seasonal timing matters. July and August bring peak crowds to both the cable car and the port, and the heat makes walking the steps uncomfortable for young children. The donkey weight regulation is more strictly enforced during these months, which means fewer animals on the steps—and quieter, less crowded alternatives as a result. Spring (April–June) and autumn (September–October) offer cooler temperatures and shorter queues, making the cable car or a walking descent genuinely pleasant rather than a survival exercise.
Can young children manage the cable car alone?
Yes. Children under six ride free, and the cabins are enclosed with doors that lock. The ride is smooth and the views are immediate—no motion sickness risk. But hold your child’s hand when boarding; the cabin doesn’t stop, so you step in while it’s moving slowly.
Is walking the steps safe for a four-year-old?
Not really. The steps are uneven, steep in places, and completely exposed to the sun. A four-year-old would need to be carried for much of the ascent, which defeats the purpose. This alternative is best for children aged eight and up who are used to hiking.
What if my child is desperate to ride a donkey?
Donkey rides are still available under the weight limit, and some operators near the old port offer short, supervised circuits rather than the full ascent. The regulation limits the load, not the experience. If you choose to let your child ride, look for an operator whose animals look rested, have access to shade, and are not visibly overworked.
How do we get from the port to our hotel if we skip the donkey ride?
The cable car drops you in Fira, and from there you can take a taxi, a local bus, or a pre-booked transfer to your hotel. If you’re staying in Oia, a private transfer from the port is more efficient than the cable car + bus combination. The main Santorini guide on the site covers the full range of transport options by area.
Are boat tours from the old port suitable for kids who wanted a donkey ride?
They offer a different kind of thrill—speed, water, and the chance to see the caldera from below. A catamaran cruise that includes a stop for swimming or snorkeling can easily replace the novelty of the donkey ride. The downside is the time commitment: most cruises run three to five hours, while the donkey ride was over in twenty minutes.
The donkey ride in Santorini was never really about the animal. It was about the ascent—the feeling of rising from the water’s edge to the white-washed cliff top in a way that felt like part of the island’s story. The cable car and the catamaran do the same thing, just without the weight. The volcanic red beach is another stop that pairs naturally with a caldera cruise.
Sources and further reading
Santorini donkey law bans overweight tourists. TravelPirates, 2018.
Santorini’s donkey weight limit explained. Santorini Impressive Tours, 2026.
Donkey rides in Santorini vs modern transport. Bus Travel Santorini.
Can you skip the cable car in Santorini?. Santorini Tours.
