As a travel curator, I am always looking for those special corners of the world that offer a unique charm. The French Riviera is famous for its glamour, but I’ve discovered a less-trodden path in the Var department, east of the main hubs. It’s an area where the land itself seems to sparkle, thanks to mica schist rock, a beautiful detail that hints at the area’s less commercial appeal. Unlike other parts of the Côte d’Azur, the railway line here veers inland, leaving much of this coastline less developed. This has preserved a quieter, greener landscape dotted with charming towns and natural beaches.
Secluded Seaside Escapes
Near the western edge of this “secret” coast, you’ll find the town of Le Pradet. It offers several beaches nestled between rocky outcrops. Plage des Oursinières is known for its clear, pebbly waters, perfect for kayaking and snorkeling. Just a short distance away, Plage du Monaco is a long, sandy stretch that remains uncrowded, even in the peak of summer. Access is via a set of stairs from the road, adding to its secluded feel.
A bit further out is Cap Garonne, a place of natural beauty and history. You can explore a mining museum and take a scenic walk. The trail here offers lovely views towards the Hyères islands and Toulon harbour. It’s also a spot where you might see wild orchids and colorful bee-eaters.
The Giens peninsula is a fantastic destination for beach lovers, with shores facing all directions. This means you can always find a spot sheltered from the wind. Almanarre beach, on the west side, boasts three miles of white sand and shallow waters, favored by windsurfers on blustery days. The eastern beach is longer, sandy, and more protected, ideal for a relaxed day by the sea. La Capte, a former fishing village along the peninsula, offers a delightful high street with appealing restaurants, a healthy cafe, and a bar specializing in rum, which adds a unique flavor to the dining scene.
La Londe-les-Maures is another town where tourism isn’t the main focus. Wine and olive oil production are key industries here, creating a relaxed atmosphere. The town is bordered by sandy beaches. During the summer, night markets held thrice weekly offer local crafts, wine, and food.
L’Argentière is one of La Londe-les-Maures’s largest beaches. Once home to a zinc mine and later a torpedo factory, it has been beautifully restored to its natural state, now featuring umbrella pines and golden sand. For those interested in marine life, a free snorkel trail, marked with buoys, provides underwater boards detailing the local sea creatures. Guided tours in French are also available, offering a deeper insight into the underwater world.
At the eastern end of L’Argentière begins a beautiful coastal path. This 5.5-mile trail connects several wonderful beaches, starting with the sandy and tree-lined Plage du Pellegrin. The land behind this beach belongs to the Château Léoube wine estate. They offer a chic restaurant nestled in the trees and charge a daily fee for parking, though you can also walk from L’Argentière, which I find is often the best way to discover these coastal gems.
Historical Retreats and Gardens
Further along the coast, you’ll find Fort de Brégançon. This historic island fortress, connected by a causeway, has served as the French presidential retreat since 1968. It was opened to the public in 2015 and can be visited when the president is not in residence. Guided tours offer a glimpse into its history and significance.
Continuing east, the winding D559 road leads to the Domaine du Rayol. This stunning botanical garden showcases plants from various Mediterranean climates around the globe, including California, South Africa, Australia, and Chile. Their on-site cafe offers a delightful lunch menu. Nearby, Plage du Rayol is a charming small beach, perfect for a relaxing post-lunch rest.
Inland Charm and History
While many know the Riviera for its coastal allure, the inland areas offer their own unique character. Hyères, with its palm trees and 11th-century castle, was once a popular winter escape for wealthy Victorians seeking warmer, drier weather than places like Nice. In its heyday, it boasted numerous tourist villas and several Anglican churches.
The old town of Hyères holds centuries of history within its streets. Rue des Porches, with its atmospheric archways and arrow slits, showcases the town’s defensive past. The buildings are painted in a harmonious palette of peach, pale blue, yellow, and pistachio, with streets adorned with colorful flowering plants like plumbago and bougainvillea.
About 20 miles east, nestled in a valley of sweet chestnut forests, lies Collobrières. This town is considered the marron (chestnut) capital of Provence, offering chestnuts in various forms, from glacé to ice cream and even liqueur. The Réal Collobrier river, spanned by a 12th-century stone bridge, once powered sawmills and cork factories, reflecting the town’s hardworking history.
For peaceful walks and stays, Hotel des Maures in Collobrières is a wonderful option. The hotel’s restaurant terrace overlooks the river. Nearby trails lead to the ruined Saint-Pons church, and hiking maps are available from the tourist office. This area is also known for its festivals; a Nature Festival in May offers stargazing and guided walks, while the Fête des Fontaines in August sees the town fountain flowing with rosé and traditional dinners. The highlight for many is the autumn chestnut festival.
Unique Landscapes and Flavors
Roquebrune-sur-Argens retains the feel of a traditional Provençal village, with its 16th-century clock tower and charming squares. The town is famous for its striking flame-red rock, similar in appearance to Uluru. Several hiking routes have been developed around the rock, some equipped with ropeways. It’s also the only place in mainland France where you might spot wild Hermann’s tortoises. For an adventurous experience, you can kayak under the rock to the wild Lac Noirel or paddle to the sea, a journey that can be quite a remarkable experience.
Provence is renowned for its rosé wine, and this region offers exceptional vineyard experiences for visitors. Domaine de la Navicelle, near Le Pradet, produces high-quality, biodynamic rosé wines. They invite visitors to enjoy picnics among the vines with stunning sea views. They also host live jazz evenings and a summer music festival, with accommodations available in old farm buildings.
Figuière, near La Londe, takes vineyard visits a step further. For a fee, you can explore their organic vineyards on e-bikes, enjoying a scenic route with sea views and a delicious picnic lunch. The picnic, featuring local delicacies, is delivered by an all-terrain electric vehicle, adding a touch of adventure to the culinary experience.
Château Léoube, the estate where I first noticed the mica-flecked soil, is a luxurious wine estate surrounded by vine-covered hills and olive groves, offering vistas towards Fort de Brégançon. They offer tours on e-scooters, including a wine tasting. It’s a place that blends its viticultural heritage with a sophisticated lifestyle.
Accommodation for Tranquility
Much of this protected area means that new hotel developments are limited, making accommodation a valuable find. Sous les Pins, located just outside La Londe, is a peaceful establishment offering beautiful views over vineyards and olive groves towards the sea. The owners have converted buildings on her parents’ property into charming gîtes and comfortable B&B rooms, all offering a welcoming base. The breakfasts are a highlight, featuring local produce served by a lovely new pool.
As a parent planning travel, I often think about finding places that offer both beauty and a sense of calm. When I research destinations like this, I consider where my family could truly relax and enjoy the surroundings. I look for accommodation that feels authentic and offers a connection to the local landscape, much like Sous les Pins seems to do.
Planning Your Visit
This region offers a quieter, more authentic French Riviera experience. For those seeking a blend of natural beauty, historical charm, and excellent local produce, the Var department is an ideal choice. With its less developed coastline and inland treasures, it provides a welcome alternative to the more crowded Riviera hotspots. Planning a trip for 2026 here means embracing a slower pace and discovering genuine Provençal life.
Why visit this part of the French Riviera?
You can discover quiet, undeveloped beaches.
You can explore historical sites and charming villages.
What are the main towns to consider?
Consider towns like Le Pradet and La Londe-les-Maures.
Hyères and Collobrières offer inland attractions.
Are there unique activities available?
Yes, you can explore snorkel trails and botanical gardens.
Vineyard tours with e-bikes and picnics are unique options.
Is this area suitable for families?
Yes, with its natural beaches and relaxed pace.
Many activities are suitable for various ages.
When is the best time to visit?
Spring and autumn offer pleasant weather for exploring.
Summer is ideal for beach activities.
What kind of local food can I expect?
Expect local wines (especially rosé), olive oil, and regional specialties.
Chestnuts are a notable product in Collobrières.
How can I get around this area?
A car is recommended for exploring the coastal road and inland areas.
Local buses connect some towns, but services may be limited.
What are the typical travel costs?
Costs can vary depending on accommodation and dining choices.
This area can be more affordable than prime Riviera locations.
What should I know before I go?
Book accommodation in advance, especially during peak season.
Learn a few basic French phrases to enhance your interactions.
This quieter stretch of the French Riviera offers a truly special experience. It’s a place where you can connect with nature, history, and culture at your own pace. I hope this guide inspires you to explore its unique beauty.
